stopovers: Far East

Far East

CAMBODIA

Ancient temples, empty beaches, mighty rivers, remote forests ... and (outside Angkor) only a handful of tourists. But the word is out - Cambodia has emerged from the decades of war and isolation and is well and truly back on the South-East Asian travel map.  The successor-state of the mighty Khmer Empire, which ruled much of what is now Vietnam, Laos and Thailand, Cambodia boasts a rich culture, a weathered French-era capital and impressive natural scenery.

The peace is young but the country is slowly attracting the tourism currently sweeping Vietnam. While much of the country's population still subsists in poverty, the provision of even basic services remains spotty and political intrigue remains as complex and opaque as ever, the security situation has improved immeasurably and increasing number of visitors are venturing back and rediscovering Cambodia's temples and beaches.

Siem Reap, the gateway to Angkor, now sports luxury hotels, chic nightspots, ATMs and an airport fielding flights from all over the region, while Sihanoukville is getting good press as an up-and-coming beach destination, but venturing off the beaten track is still an adventure.

 

Siem Reap:

Siem Reap, is a province located in northwestern Cambodia, on the shores of the Tonle Sap lake. The provincial capital is also called Siem Reap. The name literally means place of the defeat of Siam referring to the victory of the Khmer Empire over the army of the Thai kingdom of Ayutthaya in the 17th Century. Today it is most widely known for being the closest city to the ruins of the temples of Angkor.

The most recognizable of the temples, Angkor Wat, literally Capital Temple, built by King Suryavarman II the early 12th century provides the largest tourist draw. Recently the city has seen a great deal of expansion, hundreds of hotels, restaurants and shops, catering to both international and Cambodian tourists have opened to serve the influx of visitors. Also, King Norodom Sihamoni and the Cambodian royal family maintain a residence in the town. The Angkor temple complex is north of the city.

Other sites of interest near Siem Reap include Angkor Thom built by Jayavarman VII, Banteay Srei, Ta Prohm, as well as hundreds of other temple ruins. Angkor, and the surrounding area that would later become known as Siem Reap, faced repeated invasions from the Thais, and ceased to be the capital after a seven-month siege in 1431.

Siem Reap has colonial and Chinese-style architecture in the Old French Quarter, and around the Old Market. In the town, there are Apsara dance performances, craft shops, silk farms, rice-paddy countryside, fishing villages and a bird sanctuary near the Tonle Sap Lake.

Siem Reap today, being mostly a tourist destination, has a great deal of hotels and restaurants. Mostly smaller establisments are concentrated around the Old Market area, while more expensive hotels are located between Angkor International Airport and the town along National Road 6. There are a variety of mid-range hotels and restaurants along Sivatha, and budget to mid-range hotels in the Phsar Leu area.

 

Angkor Archaeological Park:

Over a period of 300 years, between 900 and 1200 AD, the Khmer empire produced some of the world's most magnificent architectural masterpieces on the northern shore of the Tonle Sap, near the present town of Siem Reap. Most are concentrated in an area approximately 15 miles east to west and 5 miles north to south, although the Angkor Archaeological Park which administers the area includes sites as far away as Kbal Spean, about 30 miles to the north. Some 72 major temples or other buildings dot the area.

The principal temple, Angkor Wat, was built between 1112 and 1150 by Suryavarman II. With walls nearly one-half mile on each side, Angkor Wat portrays the Hindu cosmology with the central towers representing Mount Meru, home of the gods; the outer walls, the mountains enclosing the world; and the moat, the oceans beyond. The later capital of Angkor Thom, built after the Cham sack of 1177, has at its centre the Bayon. Construction of Angkor Thom coincided with a change from Hinduism to Mahayana Buddhism. Temples were altered to display images of the Buddha, and Angkor Wat briefly became a Buddhist shrine. A subsequent Hindu revival included a large-scale campaign of desecration of Buddhist images, before Theravada Buddhism became established from the 14th century.

During the 15th century, nearly all of Angkor was abandoned after Siamese attacks, except Angkor Wat, which remained a shrine for Buddhist pilgrims. The great city and temples remained largely cloaked by the forest until the late 19th century when French archaeologists began a long restoration process. 

Angkor Wat (or Temple City, from the Sanskrit nagara, or city) is the best-known monument in this sprawling historical park. It was the main centre of Khmer Hindu tradition in the 12th Century. Khmer kings built a profusion of temples to honour various Hindu gods to ensure prosperity in this world and a safe passage on to the next.

The size of the monuments makes it look overwhelming when one encounters it for the first time. The following is one of the suggested plan to explore Angkor Wat. Enter through the west entrance. When you reach the entry tower, walk to the right to get a glimpse of all the five towering goupras.

Passing the tower and the libraries on both sides of the walkway, climb down the steps towards the left side and get to the water basin. You can catch a glimpse of the temple and its reflection in the water. Go past the basin and reach the left end of the temple.

You would by now have reached the starting point of the famous bas reliefs depicting scenes from various mythological stories and historic events. Walking from left to right you will come across scenes from battle of Ramayana, battle of Mahabharata, army of Suryavarman II, scenes from judgement by Yama (the supreme judge), churning of ocean by demons and gods to get Amrita - the nectar of immortality, Vishnu's victory over demons, victory of Krishna over Bana and other scenes of battle between gods and demons.

Climb the steps to reach the second tier. One can reach the third tier and the central courtyard within by climbing the steps oriented towards any of the four cardinal points. However, it is suggested that the steps on the west be taken, as these have now been fitted with a handrail — particularly useful when descending.

The sight of the grand monument towering over the landscape is breath-taking at any time of day. However, to maximise the effect it is suggested that the first trip to Angkor Wat be made in optimal lighting conditions, usually around 1 to 2 pm. Sunrise at Angkor Wat is a also great sight to witness. Hence most of the tourists tend to see the sunrise at Angkor Wat, then explore other ruins in the morning and then return to Angkor Wat later in the afternoon. The sun rises behind Angkor Wat and the best colors are seen just before the sun climbs into view. As the position of the sun as it rises varies according to the time of year, do position yourself accordingly. For example, in November-December time when you are facing Angkor Wat, the sun rises on your right hand side. Hence grab a place to the extreme left of the entry tower to see the sunrise. Sunset at Angkor Wat is best viewed either on the top tier or outside the main temple structure.

Other Angkor highlights include the magnificent Bayon Temple with its rising mound of gigantic stone heads that forms the stunning centrepiece of Angkor Thom and the delicate filigree and bas-relief of the small but exquisite Banteay Srei a little farther away.

This is one of the most popular temples after Angkor Wat and the Bayon because of the beautiful combinations of wood and stone.

Ta Prohm was built during the time of king Jayavarman VII and is best known in the Angor Archaeological Park as the temple where trees have been left intertwined with the stonework, much as it was uncovered from the jungle in.

It might be considered in a state of disrepair but there is a strange beauty in the marvellous strangler fig trees which provide a stunning display of the embrace between nature and the human handiwork. This is one of the most popular temples after Angkor Wat and the Bayon because of the beautiful combinations of wood and stone. Black and white film photographers especially love this site because of this and most of the stunning postcard shots of Angkor's trees come from here.  The temple itself is located within the Angkor Thom city walls. Preah Khan (Sacred Sword) is a large monastic complex, also partially reclaimed by the jungle. In its heyday this thriving monastery engaged over 1,000 monks and served, briefly, as the residence of King Jayavarman VII. 

 

Amansara Resort & Spa - 4 Star

Location:

The name Amansara derives from the twinning of the word aman (Sanskrit for peace) and apsara (the heavenly nymphs of ancient Hindu texts who emerged from the primordial churning of the oceans with the power to change their form at will and to bestow luck on those they favoured). The resort is located in Siem Reap, the cultural capital of Cambodia.

The enclave was once the guest villa of King Norodom Sihanouk. It has been transformed into a 12-suite retreat that provides an ideal base for exploring the temples of Angkor and the sophisticated culture of the Khmer civilization. Amansara has the inviting ambience of a gracious home and is set in a private garden compound with mature, shade trees. 

Accommodation:

Amansara has 12 suites, similar in design, featuring an open plan setting with finishes in terrazzo and timber. Colours are muted and earthy. Entry is to a combined sleeping and living area that contains a large writing desk and a king-size bed.

Adjacent is a dressing area with hanging cupboards and drawers. The lounge has a large sofa, and informal circular dining table and chairs. Beyond, and leading down a few steps, is the bathroom which opens onto a light-filled courtyard featuring a water garden and cushioned banquette. The bathroom contains twin vanities, makeup mirror, a large soaking tub and a separate shower and toilet. A floor-to-ceiling glass partition separates the toilet from the courtyard, letting in light and patio views. Each suite is air-conditioned, with ceiling fans, telephone (twin lines for Internet access), room safe and a CD music system. 

Facilities:

  • Swimming pool
  • Library
  • Gallery

Dining:

  • The Dining Room (traditional Asian & Western cuisines)
  • Walk-in-wine cellar

 

La Residence d'Angkor - 4 Star

Location:

Surrounded by majestic old trees, La Résidence d'Angkor is built in the Khmer style,and is located on the river in the centre of Siem Reap. From here, explore the spectacular temples of Angkor Wat and the awe-inspiring World Heritage surroundings,10 minutes from the hotel.

This Pansea Orient Express hotel is a haven of peace and tranquility in the mysticism of Angkor.

The restrained luxury of La Résidence d'Angkor, and the idyllic atmosphere of the property,are complemented by the hotel's unique Baray-inspired pool,finished in hand-made tiles in multifarious hues of green - from emerald to celadon.

Accommodation:

The 54 spacious rooms and the suite are exquisitely decorated in cottons and silks, wood and bamboo. The large baths are perfect for relaxing after long days of exploring the surroundings. Each room features: King or twin beds, individually controlled air-conditioning, private bathroom with shower bathtub, satellite television, hair dryer, mini bar and refrigerator, international direct dial telephone and electronic Safe. 

Facilities:

  • Swimming pool
  • Sun deck
  • Gardens
  • Laundry service
  • Library
  • Traditional massage
  • Business centre
  • Internet access
  • 2 Boutiques
  • Limousine & taxi service
  • Conference room

Dining:

  • Restaurant
  • Bar
  • 24 Hour room service
  • Cocktail lounge

 

Angkor palace Resort & Spa - 5 Star

Location:

Located in the heart of historical treasures, Angkor Palace Resort & Spa provides an ideal base for discovering the legendary Angkor temples. Angkor Palace Resort & Spa is centrally located within 15 minutes to the city temples of Angkor and the Siem Reap International Airport.

Accommodation:

The resort offers 89 luxurious guestrooms including 12 villas, 4 suites, 26 cabana rooms and 44 deluxe rooms that comes fully equipped with: Pool and landscape garden view rooms, cable television, touch button IDD telephone, direct internet access in every room,coffee/tea making facilities, private balcony, writing table, personal in-room safe, hair dryer, bathrobe and slippers. 

A sanctuary of cool tranquility, each of the guestrooms is tastefully furnished with poster beds and inlaid teak floors. All boast technological enhancements, including telephones with data ports and high speed internet access devoted to the corporate traveller.

Facilities:

  • Spa
  • Swimming pool
  • Sauna
  • Steam room
  • Outdoor jacuzzi
  • Gym
  • Apsara Pavillion
  • Tennis court
  • Guest laundry & valet service
  • Business centre
  • 24 Hour front desk & concierge
  • Ballroom & meeting facilities

Dining:

  • Sunset Cafe
  • Pool Terrace
  • Patio (bakery)
  • Lobby lounge
  • 24 Hour in-room dining 

 

Raffles Grand Hotel D'Angkor - 5 Star Deluxe

Location:

Located in the heart of Siem Reap, Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor is only eight kilometres from the famed Angkor Wat, a destination unto itself. The hotel is within five minutes' drive of the main market centre and other town attractions and eight kilometres from Siem Reap International Airport.

Accommodation:

The hotel has 131 guest rooms and suites, each tastefully appointed with art-deco, country-style furnishings and Cambodian objets d'art, reflecting the period architectural theme. The Main Building, carefully restored and refurbished to its original architectural style, is complemented by new wings of the same architectural inspiration.

Other amenities include: air-conditioning with individual thermostat control, International direct dialling, dual line telephone, colour TV with satellite channels, in-room safe, shaver outlet, hairdryer, minibar, wake-up call service with tea or coffee delivery and wireless internet connection.

There are Six room types, State superior room, Cabana deluxe room, Landmark deluxe room, Studio room, Personality Junior Suite and two luxuxrious two-bedroom Villa Suites.

Facilities:

  • RafflesAmrita Spa
  • Eastern therpaies with Western technologies
  • Gym
  • Body treatments
  • 35 Metre lap pool
  • Family pool
  • Sauna
  • jacuzzi
  • Steamrooms
  • Activities Pavillion
  • 2 Tennis courts
  • 60,000 square metres of landscaped gardens
  • Meeting facilities
  • Business centre
  • Library
  • Airport limousine service
  • Art exhibition area

Dining:

  • Cafe d'Angkor
  • Restaurant Le Grand (fine dining)
  • Poolside Barbeque
  • Poolside Terrace
  • Performance House Restaurant (Khmer buffet)
  • Elephant Bar
  • Apsara Terrace
  • The Conservatory
  • 24 Hour in-room dining

 

Hotel de la Paix - Luxury Boutique

Location:

Hotel de la Paix is Siem Reaps most stylish hotel. Created by internationally acclaimed designer Bill Bensley, this five star boutique property offers guests outstanding levels of luxury and world-class dining and spa facilities. Hotel de la Paix enjoys a prime location within the centre of town, just footsteps from the colourful markets and vibrant night life of the bustling community – yet only seven kilometres from the famous UNESCO world heritage site of Angkor. Set around an inner courtyard with lush gardens and water features, Hotel de la Paix art deco inspired design is complemented by strong Khmer influences that look to the future while respecting the past.

Accommodation:

Hotel de la Paix features 107 luxurious rooms including 9 Duplex Spa Suites with private terraces and oversized soaking tubs and 5 Courtyard Garden Suites with large outdoor bathtubs on private garden terraces.

Each guest rooms is spacious and sumptuously appointed, offering an abundance of natural light and featuring views of urban streetscape or architecturally landscaped courtyard gardens.

Chic interiors and contemporary furnishings, including handcrafted lamps and intricate wall mountings achieve a harmonious balance between modern design and traditional detailing. All guest rooms are appointed with hardwood floors and complemented by rich textiles and accessories.

Special features in all guest rooms include complimentary wireless Internet connection, a pre-programmed iPod music system that may also be taken on outside excursions, DVD players are available in all Suites.

Facilities:

  • Spa Indochine
  • Body therapies
  • Outdoor swimming pool
  • Meditation
  • Tai Chi
  • Yoga
  • Eastern spiritual teachings
  • Mountain bikes
  • Business facilities
  • Free parking

Dining:

  • Meric - International or Khmer cuisine
  • Cafe de la Paix
  • The Arts Lounge
  • Wine Cellar
  • Pool Bar
  • Lounge Bar
  • 24 Hour room service

 

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